Does porosity matter? In short, the answer is YES!! Porosity matters!! Porosity is defined in the dictionary as “the state of being porous” this means liquids go right through. This concept applied to “hair porosity” means liquids go right through the cuticle layer.
Why Is Porosity Important?
Because the methods and regimens you
Is Knowing Porosity Essential For Hair Care?
No, you may have a thorough and deep understanding of the needs of your hair, and not know your hair’s porosity but it thrives and it’s healthy.
But What Difference Does Porosity Make To Your Hair Care Regimen?
In fact, knowing your porosity is the one thing that can help you answer a number of the questions you have about your hair.
• What products do I need for my hair?
• Why do I have so much shrinkage?
• Why is my hair so dry?
• Why is my hair breaking?
• When do I need to shampoo or deep condition?
Do I need a protein treatment?
These questions may apply to you or you may have it all figured out for your hair type. But if not, it may be because you don’t know your porosity.
The Science
There are three categories of porosity high, normal and low. We’ll focus on low and high porosity because normal porosity hair is the optimal state where there is balance in how the hair takes on water. If your porosity is normal you have your hair game figured out, it’s healthy you found the products that work for you and you have no hair issues.
Simply put:
Low Porosity – repels water
High Porosity – absorbs water
The cuticle layer on low porosity hair is closed, water can not get into the hair shaft readily. The cuticle lays flat and will reflect light providing the hair with sheen.
The cuticle layer on high porosity hair is raised or there are gaps, water is taken on easily into the hair shaft. The cuticle layer
The determinate of your hair porosity will be a result of your hair care regimen or lack thereof. Styling methods, color, chemical processes and application of heat to curly hair will directly affect the porosity of hair.
The aforementioned processes can damage and cause gaps in the cuticle layer it then becomes more porous. In addition, curly hair is drier because sebum the natural oils cannot travel along the hair shaft. And there are vulnerable points along the hair shaft where curly hair bends.
How To Assess Your Porosity
Below are generalized methods to evaluate your porosity. They are not prescriptive as there are many factors that may change how curly hair reacts to water e.g. product build-up and the ingredients in the product. Everyone has unique factors that may make results differ e.g. porosity may be low at the root and high at the ends. Apply the testing methods as a general guide.
Low Porosity
- When washing hair it takes a long time for hair to be fully saturated
- Place a hair strand in a cup of water if it floats on top of the water you have low porosity
- It takes a significant amount of time for hair to be fully dry
- Running your fingertips along the hair shaft should be smooth
High Porosity
- When washing hair it is fully saturated quickly
- Place a hair strand in a cup of water if it sinks to the bottom you have high porosity
- After washing hair it dries quickly before styling is complete
- Running your fingertips along the hair shaft feels rough
A good consistent hair care regimen can change porosity from high or low to normal porosity.
Do’s And Dont’s For Your Regimen When You Know Your Porosity
Now you have an idea of your porosity there are practices you should be excluding from your regimen and things you should be including that will improve the look and feel of curly your hair and its porosity.
Caring for your low porosity – Do’s
- Deep conditioning
- Limited manipulation
- Sulfate-free shampooing
Caring for your low porosity – Dont’s
- Heated styling
- Chemical processing
Caring for your high porosity – Do’s
- Regular deep conditioning
- Include products and ingredients that support repair of the cuticle layer
- Use oils that seal in moisture
- Limited manipulation
Caring for your high porosity – Dont’s
- Heated styling
- Chemical processing
- Color processing
Jasmine Ghee provides a great example of the water test on high porosity hair.
Has your porosity improved through caring for your hair? Let us know in the comments below.
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